The French Riviera is a mixed bag for the wine enthusiast willing to travel thousands of miles to a foreign land in search of exotic wine and food experiences.
Here, in the heart of the Cote d'Azur, the most exotic wine experience at the beginning of my personal Tour de France came at a rustic French cafe, La Femme du Boulanger, located mere steps from the Promenade des Anglais.
For an aperitif before dinner on a warm summer evening, I ordered two glasses of viognier. When they arrived, I noticed something at the bottom of each glass. When I pointed to the submerged objects, the woman in charge -- the owner, I presumed -- smiled and said, "Raisins."
She offered an explanation in French, which I didn't quite understand, and then retreated inside the restaurant. I figured it must be some sort of local custom and enjoyed the viognier anyway. Days later, at Bastide Saint-Antoine, the culinary jewel of the Cote d'Azur in Grasse, I told the story to the sommelier, who wrinkled his nose in disgust.
"That is no local custom," he assured me.
Probably not, considering I planted myself in Nice for seven days and only got the raisin treatment once. But I did see a number of people at the beach plopping ice cubes into their glasses of rose, and every red wine I ordered throughout the week arrived chilled.
My greatest surprise, which was somewhat of a disappointment, too, was the absence of local wines on the wine lists of the restaurants in and around Nice. At the wine bar at the Welcome Hotel in Villefranche-sur-Mer, I came across one local wine, a 2016 Domaine de Toasc rose from the Bellet AOP, an appellation situated on cliffs just west of Nice. It was very nice, if you will forgive the pun.
Otherwise, most of the French wines I encountered were from the Cotes de Provence, Languedoc, the Cotes du Rhone and Burgundy. I say French wine because Nice, Cannes, Monte Carlo, Villefranche and environs offer nearly as much of an Italian wine experience as French. That's understandable if you remember that Nice was once part of Italy and the Italian border is but an hour or so away from the center of Nice.
I was reminded of this fact again and again, even as I had lunch at Bastide Saint-Antoine, one of the most famous restaurants in France. The first course? Risotto de mer. But of course. The Cote d'Azur is full of surprises.
Best Value
Wines are rated on a 100-point scale. Wines are chosen for review because they represent outstanding quality or value, and the scores are simply a measure of this reviewer's enthusiasm for the recommended wine.
Matchbook 2013 Tempranillo, Dunnigan Hills ($15) -- The dry, warm climate of Dunnigan Hills, near Sacramento, California, mimics the climate of parts of Spain and Portugal where tempranillo thrives, so it's no surprise that this vintage from Matchbook is a stunner. Showing layers of rich, ripe black fruits, supple tannins and a note of wood spice, it's one of the finest California reds you will ever find at this price. Rating: 95.
Tasting Notes
Francis Ford Coppola 2013 Eleanor Red Blend, Napa County/Sonoma County ($65) -- In an era where red blends are all the rage, the Francis Ford Coppola winery gives us Eleanor, a blend that utilizes the money grape from France's Rhone Valley (syrah) and the money grape from the city of Bordeaux (cabernet sauvignon). Eleanor is also a blend from two California counties, Napa and Sonoma. The result is a scintillating wine that is sophisticated, firmly structured, very dry and oh so complex. It shows nuances of red currant, blackberry and cassis, and a hint of graphite. Adding to the intrigue and complexity is a splash of petite sirah just for fun. Rating: 97.
Sodaro 2010 Estate Blend, Coombsville ($100) -- This massive red from the Napa Valley is petit verdot dominant at 56 percent, which is unusual though not unheard of. Cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc and merlot play subordinate roles; the petit verdot shines with its deep color and extraordinary depth. On the palate, the wine shows aromas of blackberry and plum, a prominent shot of wood spice and oak vanillin, and firm tannins that will serve it well over the next 15 to 20 years. Rating: 97.
J. Lohr 2015 'Gesture' Mourvedre, Paso Robles ($30) -- J. Lohr's "Gesture" lineup of wines has been a huge success on two levels: The wines are well-priced and absolutely delicious. The mourvedre is a grape popular in the southern Rhone Valley of France, and this one is a brilliant red that exhibits superb fruit purity, layered complexity and smooth tannins. This deeply colored beauty shows aromas of blackberry and blueberry and finishes with an inviting note of wood spice. Rating: 96.
Black Stallion Estate Winery 2014 Pinot Noir, Carneros ($25) -- The Black Stallion Estate Winery is the Delicato Family Vineyards Napa Valley outpost. These well-regarded Monterey County grape growers have a deft hand with pinot noir, and this one, from the cool Carneros district, delivers exceptional complexity and notes of black tea, cherry and wood spice. Rating: 95.
Girard 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley ($40) -- Girard's 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon offers up a classic style for the Napa Valley, with lush, rich red and black fruits and sweet, supple tannins. Throw in some wood smoke and spice and you've got a good old Napa Valley cabernet without the hefty price tag. Rating: 95.
